Can anyone shed some light on this? I was going to open the door panel and do some checking but couldn't find the instruction on opening the door panel.
Can anyone help point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance! Mecca8 Sent via Deja. Listing of fuses in the main fuse box. Pull the mirror control out and there is a screw, probably torx behind there. Check the armrest - it seems to me I remember there are sometimes screws there - they may have plugs over the holes, but they should be right behind the pull handle, 2 of them, probably philips.
Now yank - gently Pull the bottom and sides of the panel out away from the door - it is clipped in, don't break the plastic clips. Then lift upto get the top edge loose - carefull here, the door panel will tend to fall apart here, and not where it 'clips' together Now unplug the speakers, courtesy light, etc and throw the door panel in the trunk so it wont be damaged if it survived removal.
You will be tempted to not bother the wires, cuz you are just looking right now - if you let it hang, and you DON'T Pull a wire out of a conector, the panel will get in your way and you will break it or a speaker anyway. At the bottom of the FM filter, there's a brown wire. That is the ground for the defroster grid. Thread Tools. All times are GMT The time now is AM. Rear Defroster Not Working. User Name. Remember Me? Garage Garage.
Manage My Garage. Browse by Username. Browse Recently Added. Browse Recently Modified. Advanced Search. Mark Forums Read. Rate Thread. Over the years these plastic sliders become brittle and break apart. This can and will cause the regulator to break away from the window. Identifying this problem is simple, but it does require that you remove the door panel.
Once the door panel is removed look at both of the metal rails at the bottom of the window. If the regulator is not attached you will need to order two new plastic guides preferably more as they are a common fail point and cost only a few bucks. The regulator joints are locked into the plastic glides through a metal clip which must be inserted after pressing the joint into the glide. Keeping the moving parts well-greased helps to ensure the longevity of the regulator and motor!
This is often a symptom of an additional problem with the window. When the regulator breaks out of one of the plastic sliders it can cause the window to misalign.
This is simple to spot without removing the door panel. You will notice that the window rises or lowers at an odd angle. Window motors are a common problem on E36s.
In order to test the window motor first you need to remove the door panel and remove the foam insulation inside to access the regulator and motor. I have a video on the door panel removal process here.
Try not to tear the insulation, as you would be amazed how much BMW charges for it. Once the door panel is removed there are two ways to test it.
If you have a volt-meter, pull the power cable from the motor. If its getting current when the switch is held down but the motor does nothing you likely have a bad motor. Second option is to tap the metal portion of the motor with a mallet. If the motor now works than you have a bad motor. The motor might work okay for a while afterwards, but it will fail again soon. I drive,here 88 i convert. I did also check that one buddy, it doesnt even have one!
UK spec must be fairly different to US Andrew. I have just bought another i and swapped the known working ZKE over and still no windows or sunroof. I had a fuel pump problem when Ist got the car, someone had used a audio amp power cable to supply 12v to the pump under the seat.
I rewired it back to standard wiring and the pump was dead, so I wired it using the exist bmw loom, just changed a few wires at the fuse box end and used the factory bmw relay. The car also has parts of a factory alarm system semi installed, under further inspection I found 2 thick wires A and B had been spliced and one thin wire C had been cut, i could not find the other end of this wire!
Your right, that is nothing at all like any of the e30 or e36 I have owned. Thread Tools. All times are GMT
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